Christopher Columbus is said to have landed there in the late 15th century. Several kiosks serve octopus, conch salad, pork chops, pizza, burgers, empanadas, smoothies and beer. Clearly, I was never a Girl Scout.Captain Taz's wife had drawn me a map of the island on a piece of paper. At a fork in the road, I veer left, pushing branches and cobwebs out of my way to get to Trash Beach. Some are easy to get to, and some require long hikes. Later, it became a refuge for pirates. The beach's name comes from the large number of turtles that visit the shores every year! Wednesday morning, just before 9 am, we raised our anchor and journeyed the short 7.2 nautical miles from Ensenada Honda Bay on Culebra to Bahia Tortuga (Tortuga Bay) on the nearby island of Culebrita. The hike to the beach takes about 25 minutes through a dense forest with what appears to be Spanish moss. Fitting, as I am often the only person—or one of the only people--exploring Culebra's beautiful beaches.On a Sunday morning, I enlist Captain Taz to give me a ride to Culebrita on his boat. For an island just 7 miles by 4 miles, there are many, and each has its own distinct characteristics. Tortuga Beach is located on the small island of Culebrita, facing the east coast of Culebra.The name comes from the large number of turtles that visit the coasts. "Don't make unnecessary noise, relax, do not honk the horn," a sign warns people.The beach is long. Playa Tortuga Playa Tortuga is on Culebrita Island. "If you have one day in Culebra, go to this beach," says Susan Moran, the owner of Palmetto Guest House, where I am staying.Flamenco is the most developed beach on Culebra. CULEBRA—Captain Taz delivers the instructions nonchalantly. The best snorkeling in Culebrita is done on the East and South beaches of the island. Another location you may want to try is Playa Manzanilla, located two and a half miles to the south west. I head into the brush and follow her directions to a trail to another beach. Playa Tortuga, also on the smaller island of Culebrita, offers a scenic backdrop that includes Culebra's only manmade landmark, a small lighthouse long abandoned. You can hire a water taxi to transport it from Culebra, which can also be reached by ferry from the Fajardo area of Puerto Rico. Playa Tortuga is a horseshoe of white powder-like sand and crystal clear waters. Like any other beach in Culebra (except Flamenco), Tortuga doesn't have any amenities such as bathrooms, parking (this beach is accessible by boat only), or food kiosks. It's been out of commission since 1975, but still offers magnificent views of the ocean.Just as I'm starting to feel like I'll never find anyone, I reach the other side of the island and run into Andie and Ross Auna, a couple from Wisconsin.They invite me onto their boat, captained by Dave Gonzales. But as I watch the beautiful landscape before me, I'm anything but angry.An old tank on Flamenco Beach on Puerto Rico's Culebra island is a reminder of the U.S. Navy's presence there years ago.Tortuga Beach is an unspoiled beach on the island of Culebrita.To get to Brava Beach, you have to walk down a trail for about 25 minutes. Some are better for snorkeling than others. On the south side of the island lies the Culebrita Reef, called Los Corchos by the locals, and on the way to Playa Tortuga is Trash Beach, so called because a lot of debris from carelessness or indifferent visitors washes up here. We did! We picked up a free mooring just off the beach of this Caribbean gem, a small uninhabited island off the eastern coast of Culebra. I do an inventory of all the contents of my backpack: sunscreen, bugspray, a half eaten tin of Pringles, trail mix, and a couple bottles of water. Despite my initial fear, I could too.Back on the main island of Culebra, I rent a jeep and beach-hop. Or you can take a short plane ride straight from San Juan.I opt for the plane ride. I like that," Ordonez says.When I finally arrive, locals are there, some fishing, some lounging on hammocks.The sky turns a spectacular shade of pink and purple.The jeep comes in handy to get to Punta Soldado. Usually, the water there is calm but on this particular day, there are waves crashing against the shore. "I could get used to this," Ross Auna says. There's something special about Playa Tortuga, a horseshoe-shaped beach facing calm waters, thanks to its encircling arms that protect against the rough surf.
Just look our cover. On my 20-minute flight there, I'm the only person on the eight-seat plane. Reggaeton and salsa tunes blast from radios. You have to traverse unpaved roads to get there, and if it's rained, be prepared to maneuver around big ditches of water.There's a handy map of Culebra that you can find at the airport, hotels and restaurants, but road signs are inconsistent and there are no streetlights. At the beginning of the 20th century, the U.S. Navy took over the island and turned it into a bombing site and military training ground. So you often have to ask for directions.The sand is as white and the water as clear as Flamenco. After protests from residents, the Navy agreed to leave the island in 1975.Only in recent years have people discovered how pristine the beaches are.